I used to get the last few pounds of honey out of my spinner by propping up the back edge with little blocks of wood which I’d stack, one on top of the other, as I needed an increasingly steeper angle. One tiny knock when the spinner is at an angle and it rolls away, or slides off the table, or the blocks burst out at the back, with dribbling honey everywhere flying off the end of a violently swinging conical strainer. Sometimes it fell off all by itself as the weight distribution of the honey inside changes.
So I made a simple titling board which cannot collapse, or squeeze out at the back of the spinner. It worked well, and I include it here, even though I went on to make a better one, because it’s so easy to make from three bits of scrap wood and a few screws. I even use it for racking off my home made mead or wine, making sure I syphon off the last available drop.
But I thought I could do better. I thought I could make one which would hold the spinner in two ways, vertical and horizontal, and one which would give me a bit better control through greater leverage.
So presented here are two tilting boards, a simple example, and one which was purpose made to fit my spinner.
Here’s the first one, which has the advantage that it will work on any table or work top, and any container fits it. The disadvantage is that the spinner can fall off if you tilt it too far, and you can never get the last little bit of honey out.
Spinner on tilting board. A wedge or wooden block is gradually pushed under the back end to tilt the board.
(The cup isn’t compulsory, you can use anything to tilt the board forward)
A simple Tilting Board
Plan view showing the leading edge spinner rest and the semi-circular cut through which the honey can pour
Upside down view showing the pivot strip.
Tilting board with spinner on top
The second one needs a bit more space when in use, a largish table, or the end of a work top. The end is wedged up more easily due to the leverage. It was made specifically to fit my hand spinner but, using wedges, smaller containers can be fit between the spinner rests. It needs to be a tight fit so that the spinner doesn’t fall forward and off the spinner.
Self adhesive rubber is placed on many edges to stop things slipping around , but this is optional.
The tilting board has its own rear prop and begins doing its job without the need for an additional wedge or prop, however a small block placed beneath increases the angle.
The spinner fits neatly between the three vertical spinner rests. The rests prevent the spinner from falling off the board.
Close up of the lower two re-enforced spinner rests and semi-circular pouring hole cut-out.
The underside showing the pivot and the prop
The rear prop.
The advantage of this spinner is that, once the honey level gets too low to breech the pouring hole the spinner can re-positioned and rested horizontally on the spinner rests so that the very last drops can be extracted.
The spinner is placed horizontally on the board to get the last of the honey.
Close up of spinner rests.
The last of the honey drips through the semi-circular cut-out.
So if you are needing a winter project then perhaps a simple spinner tilting board, from scrap wood, would be a simple and useful thing to make, even with limited skills.